It’s hard to describe what it feels like to sleep directly beneath the stars on Botswana’s Makgadikgadi Salt Pans. We slept in swags with no tent around us, surrounded by nothing but the night sky, silence and an almost complete lack of light pollution. Sleeping out on Ntwetwe Pan (part of Botswana’s vast Makgadikgadi Pans system) was one of the most unusual nights of our time in Botswana. Despite the lack of luxury, it’s one of the nights I remember most vividly. My husband and I did this incredible experience during our 3 months of roadtripping through Southern Africa. That night, it felt like we were inside a snow globe full of stars.

This guide covers everything you need to know about doing a Makgadikgadi salt pan sleep out – including what the experience is actually like, how much it costs, what is included, how to book, what to pack, when to go and whether I think it’s worth adding to a Botswana itinerary (spoiler alert: it is).

Disclaimer: Some links earn me a small commission – same price for you, slightly less tragic bank balance for me.

Disclosure: this is not a sponsored or complimentary post. We paid for this experience entirely ourselves. This guide is based on my own experiences. Prices + inclusions can change so check out the current details with the operator before booking.

Makgadikgadi Salt Pan Sleep Out at a Glance

What is a Makgadikgadi Salt Pan sleep out?

A Makgadikgadi salt pan sleep out is an overnight experience where you leave your usual accommodation behind and spend the night out on the salt pans beneath the open sky. The experience we did took place on Ntwetwe Pan, one of the two largest pans in the Makgadikgadi system. Rather than sleeping in a tent or permanent camp, we had swags set up for us directly on the pan.

This is by no means a 5 star luxury lodge experience, rather a billion star luxury experience! The whole purpose of this experience is for the landscape, nightsky, silence and remoteness. I loved the opportunity to spend a night somewhere that felt so untouched. And the overall service provided by the team at Gweta Lodge was honestly stellar.

Ntwetwe Pan vs Nxai Pan vs Makgadikgadi Pans: what’s the difference?

The Makgadikgadi Pans are one of Botswana’s most unusual landscapes, stretching across a vast area of the country’s northeastern interior. It refers to the wider complex of salt pans in Botswana. Ntwetwe Pan is one of the major pans within that system. Nxai Pan is further north and is a separate area within Nxai Pan National Park. The sleep-out described in this guide took place on Ntwetwe Pan.

What’s it like sleeping on the Makgadikgadi salt pans?

The overall landscape is so vast. That part of the region is so flat. During the day, you can see on for kilometers with nothing breaking up the view. At night, that vastness is multiplied. There’s no light pollution nearby, no noise pollution. In our group, there was just us – my husband and I + our guide and chef. And the sky… We’ve spent the better part of 3 months sleeping out of our rooftop tent but this was completely different.

The night sky stretched from horizon to horizon, completely engulfing us. At some point, I remember looking up and thinking that it genuinely felt as though we’d been placed inside a snow globe full of stars. It’s probably the best way I can describe it.

The Makgadikgadi Sleep-out Experience with Gweta Lodge

On the day we went out, there was actually a Spanish group joining as well. However, we were really fortunate that they opted for a private tour – so that meant my husband and I were the only two participants for our tour so we had a really flexible experience. Generally, all tours follow the same format. You jump into a safari vehicle and set out for Ntwetwe Pan. Along the way, your guide will explain a couple of local beliefs and folklores.

With your overnight experience on the pan, you will actually have the opportunity to visit the local Meerkat colony nearby. It was just an amazing experience seeing Timon! As the sun sets, you will start heading towards your camp… but first stopping to watch the sunset over the vast land. There’s truly just something special about the sunsets you get in Africa. When you arrive at camp, you settle in and the camp chef has already been busy cooking up a feast. And what a feast it was – it’s amazing how with limited supplies and utensils, the chef can make a delicious meal.

As night falls and the stars come out, you have two options – sleep or stay up and watch the stars. I don’t think I need to tell you what I ended up doing…

After a good night’s sleep – you’ll watch the sun rise slowly over the salt pans as you sip your morning coffee and dig into breakfast. And before you know it, you’re back in the 4×4 headed back to Gweta. Genuinely, I think it was a standout experience if you want the feeling of feeling small.

Visiting the Meerkat Colony

The meerkats are the most active at dusk and dawn. We managed to catch a glimpse of the meerkats out of their burrows, being absolutely curious about us. They even got really close and climbed on some of us to get a better vantage point for predators! Of course, you’re not supposed to touch wildlife but they don’t realise that rule! They are very inquisitive animals and an absolute pleasure to watch! They are resident to the area, but they will move between different burrows.

The next morning, we returned to the colony to pay them another visit – however, they were gone! We did some searching around and found claw marks around the entrance and the remains of a meerkat nearby… Our guide believed a badger came during the night – which would explain why the colony moved on. It was probably unsafe for them there now 🙁

Can you see the Milky Way from the Makgadikgadi Pans?

Out in the salt pans, there is very little artificial light… Probably the only lights we saw were headlights of one other car and the fire of another camp flickering very far away. But because of the sheer remoteness, it means the sky can be extraordinary on a clear night. That’s the nice thing about sleeping in a swag, you don’t have to crawl out of your tent to look at the stars. All you need to do is open your eyes to see the stars!

Now, you don’t need a new moon to experience this or see the Milky Way. Although it will significantly alter your experience and your view of the Milky Way if you have a full moon. That much luminance will impact how many stars you’d see. We had a crescent moon during our time and moonrise wasn’t until 0340am! Although in the beginning of the evening, it was pretty cloudy… but the clouds did clear up after 2300hrs. So you could see why I didn’t really sleep – I couldn’t!

Is the Makgadikgadi sleep out good for photography?

Very. Even if you aren’t particularly interested in astrophotography, the landscape gives you some unusual photographic opportunities. Especially with the newer smart phones where the cameras are really good! All you might need to capture the night sky is a tripod.

During the day – the vast horizons, minimal clutter, salt formations, dramatic sunsets and meerkats give you plenty to photograph. Whereas at night, the main focus was the stars and Milky Way.

About the Makgadikgadi Pans Camp

What do you sleep on?

I’ve mentioned a couple of times that you’ll be sleeping in a swag… but I do realise not everyone knows what it is or have ever slept in one before!

A swag sleeping bag is a heavy-duty, waterproof canvas bedroll. It includes a built-in foam mattress instead of a traditional tent. You place your sleeping bag or warm blankets inside the swag to sleep directly under the open stars.

In essence, you don’t sleep in a tent. What is provided is a bedroll with plenty of warm blankets and a pillow. Even your backpack is “out in the open”. It is important to understand that this is outdoor sleeping rather than luxury glamping. If you need an ensuite bathroom, air conditioning and a proper bed, there are plenty of other places to stay in Botswana. If you want to wake up beneath an uninterrupted African sky, this is considerably more interesting.

What is the bathroom situation like?

The toilet facility was basic. A hole is dug deep enough for you to do your business. But it was really comfortable because they had a toilet seat over it and toilet paper was provided. You also had a privacy screen around you. If you go at night, you’ll have the night sky to look at while you’re busy. Personally, I think that is perfectly reasonable for an experience whose whole purpose is to spend one night in the middle of a salt pan. Whilst there may not be any running water, there are jugs of water that you can use for washing your hands. If you’re worried about going without a shower for one night, you’ll survive.

What do you eat?

The chef did a fantastic job. For dinner, we were served a 3-course meal. How wild is that to say considering our location?! We had a root vegetable soup starter followed by a buffet-style meal – we had beef stew, vegetables and rice… followed by a cake for dessert. Breakfast the following morning was eggs and bread with cereal options and tea/coffee.

 The overnight is organised for you. And honestly, eating dinner out on the salt pan with nothing around us was as much a part of the experience as the food itself.

Bookings, Cost and Inclusions of the sleep out

How much does the Makgadikgadi salt pan sleep-out cost?

We booked it through Gweta Lodge and at the time of our tour in July 2025, we paid 1800 BWP ($133 / €115 / £100) per person. Our price included:

• • Swag + Bedding
  • Meerkat Visit
  • Dinner
  • Breakfast
  • Transportation to/from the tour to Gweta Lodge
  • Guide + Chef/staff
  • Long drop toilet facilities

There is an option to drive quadbikes on the salt pans but that comes at an extra cost. Prices obviously do change over time, so don’t use our price as a guarantee of what you’ll pay. At the time of writing (August 2026), the price has increased to $175 / €150 / £130 according to their booking site. Contact Gweta Lodge for the current rate before booking.

How do you book the Makgadikgadi sleep out?

We booked the experience with Gweta Lodge through their booking site. I will admit – the description of their activity on the website does not make complete sense but I believe that boils down to a typo. It was straight forward and easy. We didn’t actually have to pay anything whilst booking it online. When we booked this in July 2025, Gweta Lodge’s system didn’t accept card payments (and we did not have sufficient Botswana Pula on us). We managed to do a bank transfer and send proof of payment on the spot.

They do have other activities around the Makgadikgadi area, including excursions onto Ntwetwe Pan if you do not want to opt for the overnight option.

Do you need to book in advance?

I’d recommend to. These tours are subject to availability and weather conditions. That being said, we only booked our tour a week in advance. It would be worth checking what time the moon rise is and what phase the moon will be during your intended visit. This will actually impact how you might see the Milky Way. A full moon will be too bright that seeing the full Milky Way will be difficult.

Photography tip: If stargazing is your priority, check the moon phase and moonrise time before booking.

Logistics of an overnight trip to Makgadikgadi

How do you get to Ntwetwe Pan?

In our case, Gweta Lodge was the obvious base for our experience. The lodge is located in Gweta, between the larger tourist hubs of northern Botswana. We stayed in Nata the night before our sleep-out tour and drove to Gweta Lodge to leave our car overnight. The distance between Nata and Gweta is approximately 100km and took us roughly 1.5hrs to drive. The roads were tarred and in good condition!

From Maun, Gweta is about 200 km east, taking closer to 3 hrs to drive.

From Gweta Lodge, it was approximately an hour to get to our overnight camp. Whilst I had met other overlanders who had done this sleep out themselves, I wouldn’t advise it for the inexperienced overlander (which we were). There is a lack of signage (if any) so you’ll simply be relying on your GPS to figure your way and there’s truly no one out there to help you if you get into trouble. There is also no cell service out on the pans.

If you’re doing a Botswana road trip, the sleep-out can be slotted naturally into a route between Nata and Maun.

When is the best time to do a Makgadikgadi salt pan sleep out?

The sleep-out is a dry-season experience. Botswana’s dry season runs roughly from May or June through to October… although this can vary yearly. During dry season, you’re less likely to have rain that will either disrupt or cancel your sleep out – although it can still happen. Because of the colder temperatures, the night sky will be clearer so your chances of stargazing is pretty good!

It’s worth noting that you can’t actually do the sleep out during wet season after it’s been raining. According to our guide, the pans can fill with water which makes driving on the pans extremely dangerous. The pans turn into thick mud, reducing traction and making it very slippery… Also, it’s no fun sleeping in a puddle of water!

Is it safe to sleep outside on the salt pans?

We felt extremely safe during our experience. It’s important to note that you’re not going into the wild on your own. The experience is organised through an operator and the camp is established for you with camp’s staff/guide support. As with any remote wilderness experience, follow your guide’s instructions.

One thing I would point out is that the toilet is a bit of a distance from the swags. Completely understandable for hygiene reasons. While they do light the locations of the “bedroom”, “toilet” and “dining area” with candles, over time the candles go out so you might be standing in the darkness yourself. Bring a headtorch with your and if you do have to go, wake up your partner to accompany you.

Like anything in the wild, don’t leave food lying around. Just because the landscape looks empty during the day, it doesn’t mean there’s no wildlife around.

What wildlife can you see around the Makgadikgadi Pans?

If your main reason for visiting Botswana is elephants, lions and leopards, don’t book the Makgadikgadi sleep-out expecting a safari. The Makgadikgadi is not primarily about wildlife in the same way that the Okavango Delta or Chobe National Park is. The wildlife experience here is very different. The highlight is the iconic meerkat colony.

Packing for a sleep out

It’s relatively straightforward to pack for because you don’t need to worry about any camping equipment – it’s all provided for you! I’d recommend keeping your personal packing list very simple.

• • Warm layers
    • Fleece
    • Puffer
    • Wool underlayers
  • Long trousers – hiking pants work!
  • Warm socks
  • Headtorch
  • Water bottle
  • Sunscreen – even in winter, don’t be fooled by the sun!
  • Sunglasses
  • Toiletries
  • Power bank
  • Camera

If you’re photographing the stars:

• • Tripod
  • Wide-angle lens
  • Spare batteries
  • Lens cloth

Does it get cold sleeping outside in Botswana?

It can get very cold. The sleep-out is a dry-season experience. This falls in the southern hemisphere’s winter (May – November). As you’ll be visiting in winter, temperatures can drop overnight to single digits. It’s important not to make the mistake of assuming that Botswana’s hot daytime temperatures are the same at night. While the swag is really warm with all the blankets that are provided, you’ll need to stay warm whilst sitting around the fire or dinner table… or if you want to stay up to watch the stars and take photos!

Is the salt pan sleep out suitable for everyone?

Mmm, it’s lack of luxuries may be off putting to some. Although, I will say – the camp felt really cosy and luxurious for me personally. But I’m also comfortable roughing it whilst camping. I will preface that this experience is one where knowing what you’re signing up for and managing your expectations makes all the difference!

I’d recommend it if you:

• • Love unusual travel experiences
  • Enjoy being outdoors
  • Love photography
  • Want to experience Botswana beyond traditional safari
  • Enjoy stargazing
  • Don’t mind basic facilities
  • Are comfortable sleeping outdoors
  • Want some genuine solitude

Is the Makgadikgadi Salt Pan sleep out worth it?

For me, yes. Absolutely. But I don’t think the value is in the accommodation itself – even though the campsite was very nice and comfortable. You’re paying for the privilege of spending a night somewhere extraordinary. What I remember most about this experience was the feeling of lying there in complete darkness, looking up and seeing the most stars I’ve ever seen in my life… I think that sort of isolation is so difficult to find.

It felt like we were in a snow globe full of stars and I would gladly go back to experience that feeling again…

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Still curious about a Makgadikgadi sleep out? Find out more

Where is the Makgadikgadi salt pan sleep out?

The experience described in this guide takes place on Ntwetwe Pan, part of the wider Makgadikgadi Pans in Botswana. We booked this experience through Gweta Lodge.

Is Gweta Lodge the only operator for this tour?

Absolutely not. There are a few others… however, they were the most affordable option at the time of our booking. We had found others that were easily almost twice the price. But I was extremely happy with their service and my experience with them.

Is Ntwetwe Pan the same as Nxai Pan?

No. Ntwetwe Pan is one of the largest pans in the Makgadikgadi system. Nxai Pan lies further north and is part of Nxai Pan National Park.

How much does the salt pan sleep out cost?

What we paid: 1800 BWP / $134 / €115 / £100 per person in July 2025
Current advertised price: $175 / €150 / £130 per person as of August 2026

Prices change, so treat these figures as a guide rather than a quote.