Winding dirt roads, cold nights, and mountain passes that make your stomach flip… overlanding Lesotho is wild in all the right ways! We crossed into the country at Van Rooyens Gate and zigzagged across dramatic landscapes, overnighting in Malealea, Ramabanta, and Katse Dam before tackling the legendary Sani Pass just ahead of a cold front.
Lesotho isn’t your typical African road trip. It’s the only country in the world that sits entirely above 1,000 metres, which means epic scenery, unpredictable weather, and roads that’ll test your driving (and patience). But if you’re after rugged beauty and off the beaten path adventure, this is your sign to go!!!
In this guide, I’ll break down our route, share honest tips from the road, and help you plan your own Lesotho road trip… whether you’re in a 4×4 or just curious about what it’s like to drive across the Kingdom in the Sky.
Heads up: Some of the links below are affiliate links, which means I might earn a tiny commission if you book, but it won’t cost you a cent extra. Think of it as buying me a cold beer for helping you plan your trip (and keeping this website running)!
Quick Facts
Best season for travel: April – September (dry season but can encounter winter conditions)
Road Conditions: Paved (some with potholes). Plenty of Gravel/Off-road
Visa Requirements: Visa free for many countries. EU/EEA nationals included
Fuel Availability: Limited outside main towns
Internet & SIM Card: Vodacom – patchy. We used Airalo eSIM with very limited signal
Currency: Lesotho Loti – LSL (many places accept South African Rand as it is 1:1).
Language: Sesotho. English widely spoken.
Quick facts of our route
Entry Border: Van Rooyens Gate (from South Africa)
Exit Border: Sani Pass (to South Africa)
Driving side: Left side of the road (British)
Vehicle: Toyota Fortuner (4×4, rooftop tent)
Duration: 5 days
When: Beginning of June
Weather: Crisp days, cold nights. Keeping an eye on the incoming cold front.
Entry Requirements
We entered at Van Rooyens Gate after overnight in Wepener. The process was really straightforward and quick. It took us about 10 mins to cross from the South African border into Lesotho. From the South African side, all you need to do is stamp your passport. Similarly on the Lesotho side, with the addition of paying for the tourist tax and road tax (if driving). Road tax was 100 LSL for a passenger car.
Pro tip: have cash on hand (South African Rands or Lesotho Loti) to pay the tourist tax. It was 100 ZAR/LSL per person.
Border Checklist: while we were not checked for these documents, it is worth having on-person, printed.
- Valid Passport (6+ months validity)
- Vehicle Ownership Documents or authorization letter from rental agency (and vehicle owner passport copy)
- International Driving Permit (IDP). Never asked for it but always good to have
- Yellow Fever Certificate. Maybe asked for if you recently travelled to endemic regions.
Why Overlanding in Lesotho?
Lesotho is an overlander’s dream. If you’re after remote routes, high altitude mountain passes, and proper off-road adventure, this tiny country packs a punch. A Lesotho road trip is less about ticking off sights and more about embracing the ride. We found there was some amazing views after each bend!
The roads are a mix of paved stretches and bumpy dirt tracks. Some are slow going, but that’s part of the charm. You’ll need patience, a high-clearance vehicle, and a taste for the unpredictable, especially if it’s been raining. But the reward? Unfiltered access to some of Southern Africa’s most dramatic landscapes. You’ll afterall be through the Kingdom in the Sky.
While overlanding, we found that we had quite a lot of the roads to ourselves. Maybe it’s because it was low season? Regardless, it’s quiet, raw, and real. If you’re craving a true off the beaten path road trip, Lesotho delivers.
General Overlanding Lesotho Tips
You could probably get away without a 4×4 for the whole route, but trust me, high clearance will be your best friend. Some of the roads can get bumpy, and you’ll want that extra height for peace of mind. Fuel is generally cheaper in Lesotho, so it’s a good idea to top up near the border posts. Just don’t rely on it always being available. We found that outside of the bigger towns, card machines can be a bit hit or miss, so having some cash on hand is smart. ZAR (South African Rand) works just fine pretty much everywhere.
We were travelling during winter (with a cold front incoming), the nights got pretty cold. Depending on where you’re staying, there may not be any heating beyond a fire, so pack warm layers just in case.
Also, don’t be too ambitious with your daily driving distances. Even short distances can take a while if the roads are rough. It took us 3hrs to drive 60km. If you’re unsure about a route, especially if it’s not a major road — have a chat with a local. One of our hosts actually warned us not to attempt a certain stretch unless we were in a convoy… it was that remote.
And finally, always, always check the weather before taking on the iconic Sani Pass. It’s a beauty, but not one to mess with in bad conditions.
Our Route through Lesotho
Our Lesotho route, in my humble opinion covers some varied landscapes and vibrant cultures. I mean, we did travel across the country! This section provides an overview of the route, highlighting key stops and experiences along the way.
Starting from the border at Van Rooyens Gate, the route takes you through the rugged landscapes of Malealea and the breathtaking heights of Maletsunyane Falls in Semonkong. Then we travelled to see Katse Dam before descending back to South Africa via Sani Pass and the Drakensberg.
Overview:
Day 1: Van Rooyens Gate → Malealea Lodge
Day 2: Malealea Lodge
Day 3: Malealea Lodge → Maletsunyane Falls (Semonkong) → Ramabanta Trading Lodge
Day 4: Ramabanta → Thaba-Tseke → Bokong/Katse Dam
Day 5: Katse Dam → Sani Pass → Drakensberg Region, South Africa
Day 1: Van Rooyens Gate to Malealea Lodge
We crossed into Lesotho from Van Rooyens Gate, an easygoing border post near Wepener. The formalities were quick, just make sure you have your car papers, passport, and some cash for road and tourist levies.
The drive to Malealea Lodge was reasonably easy, mainly tarred roads until the last 7km to the lodge. That gave us our first taste of Lesotho’s rugged terrain. The lodge is set in a peaceful valley surrounded by the Maloti Mountains and is a great place to ease into the slower pace of Basotho life.
Day 2: Malealea Lodge
We stayed an extra day in Malealea Lodge to do a pony trek to the nearby cave paintings and a waterfall. We enjoyed ourselves and thought it was something worth doing. These aren’t your average ponies either. Basotho ponies are tough, sure footed, and totally adapted to Lesotho’s steep, rugged terrain, making them perfect for exploring off-road trails. You can hike the area on foot, but riding a Basotho pony with a local guide just hits different. It’s one of the most authentic things to do in Malealea and a unique way to connect with the land and culture.
We stayed at Malealea Lodge, which really stood out for its strong focus on community-based tourism in Lesotho. They work closely with the local villages and schools through the Malealea Development Trust, and offer a range of meaningful cultural experiences, guided activities, and local led treks. If you’re looking for a responsible way to travel and want your visit to have a positive impact, this is a great place to start!
👉 Click here to check out activities and rates at Malealea Lodge.
Day 3: Malealea to Ramabanta via Semonkong
The next morning, we set off to see Maletsunyane Falls, the tallest waterfall in Lesotho, standing at 192 metres. Located just outside the town of Semonkong, its name means “Place of Smoke” in Sesotho, called so because of mist cloud it creates when flowing at full force. Since we visited in winter, the waterfall wasn’t at its peak flow, but it was still an impressive sight.
Entrance to Maletsunyane Falls: 160 LSL for foreigners. When you turn off at the sign from A5, it’s about 5km on dirt track to the entrance and falls.
From Semonkong Lodge, you can either hike or abseil down to the base of the falls. The lodge offers the world’s longest commercial abseil for the brave! While we didn’t stay at the lodge ourselves, we were quoted 2000 LSL (~£82 per night) for a room and no dorm beds were available.
Instead, we drove back towards the A3 Highway and spent the night at Ramabanta Trading Post Lodge. Recommended to us by a guesthouse owner in South Africa. This rustic lodge turned out to be a great stopover. Housed in an old colonial trading post, it’s tucked among mountains and river valleys, ideal for breaking up the journey. We crossed paths with the owner, Brian, who shared some solid tips for our route ahead. After a long day, we cooked dinner and kicked back by the fire in the main lounge. Highly recommend it if you’re passing through!
Day 4: Ramabanta to Katse Dam (via Thaba-Tseka)
Now today… was a driving day! It was long, rough but absolutely breathtaking. The drive from Ramabanta to Thaba-Tseka was on tarred roads, windy mountain passes with gorgeous scenery. This part of the drive took us 3-3.5 hrs.
Now the real challenge was the road from Thaba-Tseka to Bokong/Katse Dam. We were given plenty of heads up from the locals that this would be a pretty rough and beaten up road – and they were right! It was 60km of endless gravel roads, passing villages and some amazing highlands. It took us 3 hrs to drive it. Both my husband and I are a bit Type 2 Fun so we thoroughly enjoyed driving it. We weren’t sure about some bits but it’s all part of the fun.
Tip: while we did see sedans driving this road, I would recommend a 4×4 or at least a high clearance 2×4 for this stretch of 60km!
Eventually, we made it and saw Katse Dam. It is one of Africa’s engineering marvels, part of the Lesotho Highlands Water Project. It’s massive, with deep blue water surrounded by terraced hills. We stayed at Bruvita Lodge as Kaste Lodge was closed for renovations. It’s really cool because I didn’t expect that you could drive on the dam wall, which is what we did at sunset. If you so fancied, there are boat tours on the dam itself.
Day 5: Katse Dam to Sani Pass. Rushing to beat the cold front
Throughout our journey through Lesotho, I kept getting news about the incoming cold front (forecasted to have disruptive snow in Lesotho). We were warned by the locals that the mountain passes can be dangerous when covered in snow and there’s a potential to be snowed in.
We set off early toward the Pass, planning to descend before the cold front hit. The road took us through more incredible scenery, think lunar landscapes. Eventually, we reached the Sani Top, Lesotho’s highest accessible point by car at over 3240 m. Right at the border, there is Sani Mountain Lodge, which is supposedly home to Africa’s highest pub. Quick pitstop for some hot chocolate and pizza before we tackle Sani Pass.
Entrance to Highest Pub in Africa: 100 LSL per person payable on card. But you get this as a food/drinks voucher at the pub to use.
We’ve been told that the road has improved but the beginning was still steep, rugged gravelly switchbacks. This pass is famous as it is 1000m elevation change in less than 10km. You need a 4×4 to tackle this – there’s even a sign at the border posting stating that.
Not ready to overland independently, yet?
If the idea of navigating mountain passes or bumpy dirt roads isn’t quite your thing (yet), don’t stress! You can still experience the magic of Lesotho without having to drive yourself. There are plenty of Lesotho tours you can book through GetYourGuide that take the pressure off and let you sit back, soak in the views, and learn from local guides. Whether you want to visit Maletsunyane Falls, explore Sani Pass in a 4×4, or Basotho culture/pony treks, these guided experiences are a great way to get a taste of the country’s wild beauty… without having to be behind the wheel. 😉
You can browse the options above and pick something that suits your comfort level and travel style. It’s a great way to experience the Kingdom in the Sky.
Click here to check available Lesotho tours on GetYourGuide
Wrapping Up Overlanding in Lesotho
Lesotho took our breath away… and not just because of the altitude! This high altitude kingdom is all about rugged beauty, warm Basotho hospitality, and raw, unfiltered road travel. Overlanding in Lesotho takes some patience and planning, but the payoff is an unforgettable journey through one of Southern Africa’s most underrated countries.
There are no crowds here. No fast food chains. No traffic jams (unless you’re in the main towns) or noisy tour buses. Just open roads, sweeping valleys, traditional mountain villages, and a sense of freedom you probably won’t find on the typical tourist trail.
Lesotho ended up being one of our favourite road trips in Southern Africa. We had no expectations going in but the journey was definitely the experience rather than the destination. It wasn’t easy and it felt real. Every kilometre pushed us in the best way. And leaving just before the first snowfall? That was the cherry on top. Phew!!
Escaping the Cold Front
Lesotho’s high-altitude climate means temperatures can drop quickly, especially in winter. Being prepared for cold weather is crucial for a comfortable and safe journey. We visited in winter so this would definitely be my suggestion:
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Layer Clothing. It is warm during the day (can be a cool breeze) and gets pretty chilly at night so pack warm!
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Pack a Warm Sleeping Bag. Especially if you’re planning on camping! We opted to say in huts/rooms to save us from the chilly nights.
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Check Weather Forecasts. Like I said before, since you’re at altitude, the weather can be pretty unpredictable. Stay informed about upcoming weather changes. We just got lucky that FB was suggesting the weather forecast posts to me and also speaking to the locals kept us informed!
Ready to Overland Lesotho?
If you’re looking for a road trip that pushes you a little out of your comfort zone (in the best way), look no further. Lesotho delivers. It’s wild, remote, and refreshingly untouched. From pony treks and waterfalls to quiet mountain passes and cosy fireside nights, this trip gave us everything we love about slow, meaningful travel.
So if Lesotho wasn’t on your radar before, maybe it should be now. Pack your sense of adventure (and maybe a few extra layers), and get ready for a journey that’ll stick with you long after the dust settles.
Got questions about planning your Lesotho route? Drop them in the comments… I’m always happy to help fellow travellers hit the road!
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