Uzbekistan – the Heart of the Silk Road. With magical cities like Bukhara, Samarkand and Khiva, I think it should be the next country you explore. You might’ve heard of The Golden Journey to Samarkand. It’s quite a famous poem about the ancient city. By travelling here, you create some amazing travel memories through its historical sites and seeing some of the most amazing and intricate architecture.

Let’s go on an adventure into the heart of Uzbekistan and see how I spent 10 days travelling this Central Asian gem. I will be sharing some practical tips to ignite your wanderlust and inspire your next budget-friendly escapade through Central Asia. As a solo female backpacker, navigating Uzbekistan was incredibly easy. I may go as far as to say it’s one of the easiest countries I have had the pleasure of visiting. Not convinced? Well, read on…

Understanding Uzbekistan
– Local Markets
– Artisans + Handicrafts
Flying Uzbekistan Airways
The Itinerary

Understanding Uzbekistan

I’ve created the ultimate guide covering places to visit, visa requirements, must-try meals, and transportation in Uzbekistan. If you’re interested in exploring the finer details of traveling in and around Uzbekistan, be sure to check it out.

Local Markets

One of the best ways to learn/understand a culture is by exploring the local markets. It’s a great way to see what inspires the local and traditional dishes. It can be quite an sensory experience if you haven’t been to a market like this before. It is divided into sections – a wet market (produce, meat etc), spice market, fruits and vegetables, household goods, ceramics and an entire section dedicated to cheese and bread! Visiting the market can be a feast for your senses with the sounds of chatter and people bargaining to the smells of various traditionally made cheese and the sights of the daily life.

Artisan and handicrafts

The city’s bazaars are a collection of of traditional handicrafts, from handwoven rugs to intricately designed ceramics and ikat fabric goods. As you roam, you will see local artisans creating their crafts in real time and it is amazing to watch. I came across artisans who were not only traditionally painting but also decorating chess sets to engraving designs onto the metallic plates as well as craving wooden jewelry boxes. 

Ikat fabric: This fabric can be made from a mixture of silk and cotton. It is dyed before the yard is woven. This pattern is probably the most recognised symbol of Uzbekistan.

Prior to visiting, I had assumed that the inner walls of the madrasas where just empty or filled with people gathering. What I found interesting and wasn’t expecting was that in each madrasa you entered, the courtyard was lined with vendors selling their crafts. You could easily “shop around” to find the best deals. But in some instances, some of the crafts the vendors were selling was unique to them.

Flying with Uzbekistan Airways

If you’re coming from overseas, flying in is your best bet. I booked a flight from Dubai (DXB) with Uzbekistan Airways, and the online booking process was straightforward. However, the airport experience was quite a story.

Now, this might just be a one-off observation, or it could be typical. Either way, my experience was, let’s say, unique—not negative, just… different.

During boarding, there was a noticeable sense of panic amongst a lot of the Uzbeks trying to get their baggage on board. It seemed like they had more than the allotted baggage allowance. One man approached me, asking if I could take one of his packages through the counter since I only had a small backpack. His package was a sizeable box wrapped in black plastic, making it impossible to see or open without damaging the wrapping. He had four other similar packages and claimed that they were gaming consoles. I politely declined, and he wasn’t too happy about it. But, it’s not worth the risk carrying someone else’s luggage.

General Safety Tip: Make sure you aren’t carrying anyone else’s luggage. I am sure they may be nice people and it’s harmless, but it’s not worth the risk being in a bad situation.

Once on the plane, it was what could only be described as – chaos? It seemed like most passengers didn’t care about seating assignments and I was lucky no one was sat in my seat. It felt like a game of musical chairs with lots of discussions about who should sit where. Despite the seating drama, the meal was decent and quite filling. The flight itself felt like any other, except for one quirky detail: one of the seat cushions was missing? Regardless, I’d probably still fly with them again.

An Itinerary: Ten days in Uzbekistan

Traveling in Uzbekistan starts with these kinds of colorful experiences, and they just add to the adventure. If you’re intrigued by the nuances of traveling around Uzbekistan, be sure to check out my ultimate guide on places to visit, visa requirements, must-try meals, and transportation.

The Overview

Day 1: Land in Tashkent. Take the overnight train to Bukhara
Day 2: Bukhara – Explore the Old Town
Day 3: Bukhara – Explore the “Outer Old Town”
Day 4: Soak in the last moments in Bukhara. Take the afternoon train to Samarkand. Night show at Registan Square
Day 5: Samarkand – Explore Gur-i-Amir, Friendship Square, Hazrat Khizr Mosque, Shah-i-Zinda
Day 6: Samarkand – Siyob Bazaar, Bibi-Khanym mosque, Registan Square (Minaret, Cultural Show)
Day 7: Samarkand – Ulugh Burg Observatory, Afrosiyob Museum, Monument of the Crying Mother, Wine Tasting
Day 8:Morning train to Tashkent. Explore the Tashkent metro stations. Independence Square.
Day 9: Tashkent – Chor Su Bazaar, Tashkent City Park
Day 10: Home 

 

Day 1: Overnight Train to Bukhara

Train Cost: 177 320 UZS (11GBP / 14 USD)

My flight arrived in Tashkent late in the afternoon. I kicked off with an overnight train to Bukhara. At the airport, I had to show my eVisa to immigration and explained my brief plan of my time in Uzbekistan. At baggage claims, purchase a local tourist SIM card. There is also a taxi counter to purchase a voucher to get the taxi to the train station. You can buy some snacks from the local vendors at the station while waiting for the train.

Tip: You can download the UZ Railway app as you will need to show your ticket and passport at the entrance to the station. Similar to an airport, your luggage will go through the x-ray machine.

Train stations offer a glimpse into local life. The night train is a really affordable and comfortable way to travel long distances. By taking the overnight train, you can maximize your time and budget. Sharing a compartment with locals can be an opportunity to engage in conversation and learn about the culture. The locals mainly speak Uzbek or Russian. I had booked a second class ticket so I was sharing the cabin with an Uzbek family. We attempted to have a conversation and they seemed surprised to see I was travelling by myself. I was rocked to sleep by the swaying of the train.

Female Travel Tips:
– Sleep with your smaller backpack either between me and the wall or with a limp through.
– If possible, prebook the top bunk bed for more privacy

Navigating Bukhara’s Heritage

Day 2: Roaming Ancient Streets

The overnight train takes 8-9hrs to reach Bukhara, arriving at approximately 06:15am. I managed to head to my guesthouse to drop off my backpack for storage and roam around the city at dawn. It gave me a glimpse to what life might’ve been like centuries ago; taking it all in, unhurried. The morning light catching the intricate tiles of the madrasas were stunning to look at. For breakfast, try a samsa and local chai (tea) at an Uzbek cafe while taking in the architecture and atmosphere of the area you’re in. The city starts coming alive at about 1000 – 1100 hrs.

Bukhara’s historical center is compact and easily walkable. Use this day to gain your bearings. Keep an eye out on potential eateries, cafes and even souvenir shops. Spend this day wandering around the city walls and sampling local dishes at chaikana (teahouses).

Solo Female Tip: Walking around Bukhara at night felt completely safe. The locals were welcoming and the area is easy to navigate. Although, be careful of the traffic!

Accommodation: Boutique Hotel Minzifa $40 USD per night for a room.

Day 3: The Ancient Wonders of Bukhara

There’s a lot to see around Bukhara. I ventured by foot to “outer central Bukhara” starting with Chor Minor. Opposite of Chor Minor, a multi-generational Uzbek family selling USSR memorabilia. If that is something of interest to you, it is worth a check out. I had purchased some pins from the USSR era.

An must try is the national dish: the famous Plov – a meat and vegetable dish slow cooked in the tandoor. The portion sizes are generous! I made a mistake and wanted to sample everything – plov, chai, Uzbek flatbread and a fresh salad. All this for USD$4! You could’ve easily rolled me out of the restaurant.

After refueling the tank, I went on a walk to the local park and stumbled upon Bolo Hauz Mosque and observed the locals praying from outisde the mosque. From here, you can walk to Chashmai Ayub Mausolem on the way to the Central Bazaar. On my way back towards town, I spent a couple of hours in the late afternoon exploring the fortress of Bukhara – Ark Fortress before dinner and unwind.

Entrance fees for Ark Fortress: 30 000 UZS / $2.40 USD / 1.90 GBP
Accommodation: Boutique Hotel Minzifa $40 USD per night for a room.

Day 4: Bukhara – Samarkand

Enjoy a slow morning walking around Bukhara, taking in the last sights of the old center. I stumbled upon a Jewish Museum. It was a small museum in an old Jewish house that had been converted.

Take the late afternoon train to Samarkand. I had taken the slower train instead of the Afrosiyab. However, 2.5hrs later, at 1830 hrs, I was transported to Samarkand. I had met a fellow traveller on the train and we split the cab approximately 50 000 UZS each to get to the city center from the station.

As evening approached, I made my way to Registan Square, the heart of this ancient city. The square, flanked by three grand madrasahs—Ulugh Beg, Sher-Dor, and Tilya-Kori. Even from the viewing platform, you could see each madrasa’s intricate tilework and majestic arches. Although it is hard to appreciate from afar. At night, the madrasas were illuminated, creating a breathtaking scene.

Tip: Every night, at 2130hrs, there is a light show performance. If you’re in the area, you can see the light show from the courtyard or alternatively you can view it on the viewing platform and the stairs.

Train: 80,220.00 UZS / 5 GBP / $6.30 USD
Accommodation: Heartland Hostel Samarkand $10 USD per night – female only dorm
Entrance fee to Registan Square as a foreigner: 50 000 UZS / 3 GBP / $4 USD

Samarkand: A Tapestry of History

Day 5: Samarkand Sunset Views at Registan Square

The first stop on my quest was the Gur-e-Amir Mausoleum, the final resting place of the great conqueror Timur. The mausoleum’s stunning blue dome and ornate interior. It was quite marvelous looking at the details, you could only imagine how much time had been spent on completing this. From here, you can walk towards what I would assume is the business district. Located in the middle of the main roundabout, there’s a large statue of Timur, Further out from the city, you will come across Friendship Square, which is quite a nice place to have a stroll. The park is large and filled with families and cafes in the middle.

This was the only time I felt unsafe. A man had walked passed me, very closely which rang some bells. I noticed he was following me through the park for a long time. Approximately 10 mins before I started to take action.

Solo Female Tip: If you find yourself in this situation – Keep to areas that are crowded and full of people. Walk in the middle of the pathway and if you’re comfortable, stare down the person. Remember their description. Bring attention to yourself by calling him out. It worked for me and he scattered.  I found a cafe and sat down for over an hour while I recomposed myself. I returned back to my hostel, took a shower and changed my clothes.

After I had taken some time to recompose myself – I wondered to the Hazrat Khizr Mosque. It is the resting place of one of the Islamic prophets, Hazrat Khizr. This complex is located on a hill so it is a great vantage point to witness the sunset over Bibi-Khanym mosque and other monuments. From here, take a short stroll to Shah-i-Zinda. This is probably one of the most impressive places I’ve had the pleasure of visiting. It is a necropolis with a series of mausoleums. Each tomb was what I would describe as lovingly decorated with intricate tilework. I spent sunset in this necropolis and while it is packed with visitors, as the sun starts to set, the place quietens and you feel a sense of peace? The skies covered in pink hues contrasted over the blue tilework is beautiful to admire.

Entrance fee to Shah-I-Zinda as a foreigner: 50 000 UZS / 3 GBP / $4 USD
Accommodation: Heartland Hostel Samarkand $10 USD per night – female only dorm

The day concluded with a comforting Uzbek dinner near Registan Square, with shaslik, Uzbek flatbread, a salad and a local brew! The best way to wrap up the end of the day.

Day 6: Bazaars and Performances

The first order of business was to delved into the vibrant Siyob Bazaar, a bustling market teeming with life. As I mentioned previously, the Uzbek markets are an experience for the senses, this was no different. Vendors enthusiastically displayed their goods, offering everything from teas to food, ceramics and bread. Wandering through the stalls, I sampled various treats and simply observed my surroundings, trying to immerse myself in the local culture.

Next door, you can visit Bibi-Khanym mosque. It is said to be one of the grandest mosques in the Islamic world. 

Entrance fee to Bibi-Khanym Mosque as a foreigner: 50 000 UZS / 3 GBP / $4 USD
Accommodation: Heartland Hostel Samarkand $10 USD per night – female only dorm

As evening approached, I made my way back to Registan Square as I had yet to witness it at sunset. While talking photos (and selfies), a tour guide had approached me and we had a chat. He helped me with a photo. After he proceeded to ask me if I wanted to visit the minaret and watch a cultural performance. I’m not one to say no so I took him up on his offer. He guided through some pathways and I handed him our agreed sum and up the minaret I went! I will  say, it’s a lot of narrow and steep steps so be careful!

Tip: Visit at sunset to see the soft light and potentially a visit to the minaret. Definitely worth catching the cultural performances. I was quoted approximately 100 000 UZS (~9USD) for both the minaret and cultural show.

It was quite a breathtaking view and I can safely assume that you’re actually not allowed up the minaret but I didn’t actually know about this until after. The cultural performance began at 1800hrs and the courtyard of the madarasa came alive with traditional music and dance, offering a captivating glimpse into Uzbek heritage. It was a story of the local life – from birth to marriage. The illuminated madrasahs provided a stunning backdrop, enhancing the enchanting atmosphere. Sitting amidst fellow travelers and locals, I felt a deeper understanding to the history and culture that defines Uzbekistan.

Day 7: Historic Treasures

I opted to take a taxi to visit the Ulugh Berg Observatory. Safe to say, that was an experience in itself. You approach drivers asking how much the trip would cost. Once the price is agreed, you get into their car. Sounds simple? What I didn’t realise was there were two other people in his car – an older lady and a child. I assumed they were family? He started the journey but ended up going to a residential area, which confused me. Turns out the other two were passengers heading home after a morning in the market. Turns out the taxis in Uzbekistan are communal. To be fair, he tried to explain it to me but with no Uzbek and broken Russian, I didn’t realise!

Onto the order of the day.

The day started with a visit to the Ulugh Beg Observatory, a testament to the city’s historical significance in the field of astronomy. Built by the Timurid ruler and notable astronomer Ulugh Beg. The museum provided fascinating insights into the astronomical advancements achieved during Ulugh Beg’s era.

If you take the scenic walk back to town, you will come across the Afrosiyob Museum, which showcased the ancient history of Samarkand, including artifacts from the pre-Islamic period. Later that afternoon, I tried joining an impromptu wine tasting but as that was full, I managed to get a slot at 1700hrs tasting. While waiting, pay a visit to The Monument of the Crying Mother, a war memorial for the fallen soldiers of World War II. Uzbekistan may not be the first place that comes to mind for wine, but the region boasts a rich history. The tasting session allowed me to sample a variety of local wines and cognac, each with distinct flavors. The winemaker shared their passion and expertise, enhancing my appreciation for this lesser-known aspect of Uzbek culture.

A day encompassing scientific achievement to solemn remembrance and wine culture made this day an enriching experience. Uzbekistan is afterall more than just a country on the silk road route.

Accommodation: Heartland Hostel Samarkand $10 USD per night – female only dorm

Solo Female Tip: Accommodation is really affordable in Uzbekistan. Either opt for a private room or a female-only dorm if that makes you more comfortable.

Day 8: Samarkand – Tashkent

I started the journey back to Tashkent on the 0830hrs train arriving at 1300hrs. It had been a packed week so it was slow going when I had arrived. Eventually, I was ready to explore its capital. I had heard that the Tashkent metro stations are one of the most beautiful places to see in the capital. A mix of Soviet era train carriages with different themed stations, akin to the stations of Stockholm. It is the easiest, efficient and most affordable way to explore the capital. While it is quite spread out, it is well connected and the waiting times are short.

Tip: Previously, the train stations were not allowed to be photographed, reasons unknown to me. It seemed fine to photograph now but it is worth confirming with the guards there. They seemed fine with me snapping away.

Just in front of Hotel Uzbekistan, Independence Square stood as a symbol of Uzbekistan’s national pride, featuring impressive monuments and fountains. The square is a lively gathering spot for locals, adding to its vibrant atmosphere. It has wide boulevards that are lined with trees, fountains and monuments.

Train: 80,220.00 UZS (5 GBP / 6.30 USD)
Accommodation: Hotel Uzbekistan

Day 9: Tashkent

This whirlwind around Uzbekistan was of course going to end off with a visit to the Chorsu Bazaar. The capital’s lively market that offered a sensory feast of colors, sounds, and scents. Wandering through the aisles, I admired the variety of goods—from fresh produce to intricate textiles—and savored some local snacks. Also picked up a lot of knick knacks to decorate my house with to remind me of my adventures.

Tashkent is a really modern city. Soviet architecture can be seen in the metro stations, drama theatres and official buildings. You will also notice its push for modernism when you visit Tashkent City Park. A park with restaurant lining the waterfront with its main feature being the water fountain show that happens every 30mins pass the hour.

Tashkent’s unique blend of old and new captivated me, setting the tone for an unforgettable journey through Uzbekistan.

Day 10: Home

For me personally, this was an end of my 10 day adventure in Central Asia. However, for you, leaving Uzbekistan doesn’t have to mean the end of your Central Asian adventure. The region is brimming with destinations that promise further exploration and discovery. Neighboring countries like Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, and Tajikistan offer diverse landscapes and historical cities

Each country has its unique charm and cultural heritage, making Central Asia a region rich of experiences. If you fancy immersing yourself in local traditions, trekking in the mountains or discovering other cities along the Silk Road – Central Asia has something for everyone. As I planned my next steps, I felt a surge of excitement, knowing that the adventures ahead would be as enriching and memorable as my time in Uzbekistan. One day I will return to Central Asia to continue the rest of the journey.

Have you ever thought about visiting Uzbekistan as a solo female traveller? Let me know down below what else you’d like to know about travelling the region!